29 March 2013

Ski Touring in the Himalayas

The shock is almost as pressing on the mind as on the body.  Travelling from the tropics of the Andamen Islands into the mountainous regions of Himalayan India is a change worthy of planetary distances.  The change certainly took its toll on my health:  I immediately came down with a cold and a rogue sand fly bite on my ankle got so badly infected that I couldn't walk.  

Alas all that mended and I was right as rain (if not a little cold) for a ski touring exped I had organised.  When organising such trip it always comes down to a roll of the die if you end up with a good group, of people that get along, of the right fitness and skill level.  I rolled a six!  Our group consisted of the Swiss/French guide and owner of the company, a Quebecoise (spl?) and myself.  Two cooks made up the base camp staff and looked after all our affairs leaving us free to only contemplate the mountains.  I've never taken part in a 5* all inclusive camping trip - but I bet it doesn't get any better than this... one day there was a steaming hot pizza waiting for us as we descended the last slope into camp.

Before I start digressing too much, the mountains were free of any tracks, of any people and we had it to ourselves for the four day expedition.  We reached our maximum altitude of 4300m on the third day.  Absolutely amazing!


















21 March 2013

A Study on Tourists

The Indian tourist is a creature far removed fro their Western counterpart.  Although they find themselves in the same environment the differences between the two cultures is almost tantamount to the difference between species.

On Elephanta beach both species gather, the Indian species in herds grouping together and the Western species in small groups of two or even solitary creatures, normally young males.  The Western species spurns the bustle and noise that the herds of Indians create and continues some way off away in the search for privacy.  Even then the small groups of Western tourists do not gather.  If one group happens upon another a quick greeting is exchanged before the newer group has to continue some way away leaving a gap of about 20-50m before settling to rest.  This gap can be reduced is some obstacle can be found between the groups.  The western tourists activity for the day is to bathe in the heat of the midday sun much like a lizard would but in an attempt to bronze their white skin.  They will swim, read and and sleep too.  About 50% of the tourists will burn under the strength of the tropical sun which they typically underestimate and their prized sun kissed skin would peel away unforgivingly.  Their dress is minimalist, exposing as much skin as possible to the sun's rays.  The male of which is typically in beach shorts, the female in a small bikini top and bottom.  Fortunately for them they tend to be strong swimmers allowing them to enjoy their autonomy with minimal risk.

The Indian species is very much the opposite.  As mentioned earlier they group together in herds of 50 to 100.  Their love of the beach is typically accompanied with a great fear of water.  They typically cannot swim, but even those that can are still afraid of the large fauna that reside below the surface.  At Elephanta beach they come for water sports, to hang out with friends and not for privacy.  As opposed to their Western counterparts who will be here for weeks they have only a few days to experience everything.  Catering for this need are entrepreneurial Indians who provide guided snorkeling trips on the sea side.  The usual mask and snorkel equipment is augmented with floats and inflatable rings to help the tourists keep themselves afloat.  Even in the water they group together, splashing around in the shallows as herds do.  Their inexperience with water and boats make them yearn for the other tricks that the entrepreneur provides.  Motor boats rides, banana boats and jet skis are all popular with the Indian tourists.  These activities occur within the same confines of the snorkeler meaning that the herd mentality becomes a danger as opposed to a safety net.  But all of these activities remain for the new young and adventurous Indian tourist.  Older and less intrepid tourists resort to enjoying the sea from the safety of the beach.  They wade in the water up to knee high and take pictures of each other enjoying themselves.  Picture taking and good quality cameras is relatively new for this species and so their enthusiasm is endless.  They take several photos of each event or pose and sometimes their poses do not reflect reality.  'This is me making a sand castle' or 'Thisis me relaxing on a horizontal tree trunk by the water.' The photos suggests that these activities have occurred but in actual fact, and I bear witness to this, they did not build a sand castle or relax on the log for any duration of time greater than to take the photograph.  Sometimes splinter groups emerge from the herd, typically family units that head away in the direction of the less populated beach that is interspersed with the Western tourists.  To the Western tourists the stretch of beach is full but to the Indians it is empty.  They find a space between groups of Western tourists to picnic and relax in.  The Western tourist feeling threatened and crowded packs up and moves away whilst the Indian tourists remain oblivious to the fuss they have caused.  The Indian tourists dress is far more elaborate and conservative.  They are fully dressed, T-shirt, shorts and sun glasses for the male and full length dress and shades for the female.  The outfits perform two functions, firstly it lessens the impact of the strong sun on their light brown skin which would otherwise turn them a dark brown to black colour suggesting servitude and poverty.  The second reason is due to cultural sensitivity where showing too much skin in unacceptable.

The reader upon hearing of these descriptions must agree that although physically very similar the behaviour between the two groups suggests completely different species.



Andamen Islands: Weeks 3-4

The Andamen Islands are the tropical paradise that they are made out to be.  The fine, white, sandy, palm tree fringed beaches are heavenly and the sea a balmy 28 degrees.  Although the archipeligo consists of hundreds of islands only about 17 are accessible  to tourists (without their own boat), Indian and foreigner alike.  Geographically the islands are more south east asia than India, anthropoligically they are even further removed - the indigineous population are neither South East Asian nor Indian.  Their language descends from a unique historical tree as well as their geneology.  Sadly the cat and mouse games played by the various super powers over the ages have rendered these populations insignificant and their numbers remain in decline.  Recently attempts have been made to repair the damage that colonisation has wrecked on these populations and certain measures have been put into place:  tourists can only travel to only a few islands, contact with indigineous populations is prohibited and so too is venturing into their territories.  But as is often the case, these actions are too little and too late and the majority of the indigineous populations are on a downward slide.  Just recently their was the much publiscised case of the last surviving member of the Bo tribe passing away, taking with her a 65000 year of language and history.

Instead the main inhabitants of the islands these days are immigrants from the main land.  Some have moved over as refugees, others as a deal with the government.  These second and third generation immigrants provide all the businesses on the tourist islands.  Although tourist numbers are increasing, it is still fairly easy to find a piece of paradise for yourself. :-)














Andamen Islands: Week 2

A little bit of paradise.